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    Could a ground source heat pump cut your bills?

    Using the ground’s higher temperature to heat your home and warm your water can save you up to £480 a year on bills, but it s not for everyone.

    When people talk about generating energy at home, I tend to picture solar panels. But I recently looked at investing in photovoltaic (PV) panels and decided they weren't for me. And that was before the government slashed the rates paid on feed-in tariffs which will have put even more people off.

    Quite a few people said they didn't want solar panels either and asked instead about ground source heat pumps. I've been taking a closer look at geothermal pumps to see if they're suitable for my house and how much people can hope to save.

    What is a ground source heat pump?

    Ground source heat pumps have always sounded a bit futuristic to me. I've been incorrectly picturing deeply-buried pumps harvesting warmth from the molten core of the earth. Yes, I know that's 30 miles down — but I hadn't really given it a lot of thought!

    The technology is a lot simpler than that. A network of water pipes is buried in your garden, with a heat pump at ground level. That pumps a mixture of water and anti-freeze around the pipes. The ground retains the sun's heat, which warms the pipes, and then the heat pump extracts the warmth and raises it to a higher temperature.

    These pumps aren't technically renewable energy sources, as they do need electricity to power them.

    [Useful: Would you save money by switching energy provider?]

    Is it suitable for me?

    Unfortunately, ground source heat pumps aren't remotely suitable for my house. In fact, they don't seem to be suitable for the vast majority of properties.

    While you don't need to have acres of gardens to fit the coils as they can be buried vertically, you do need enough room for a digger to operate. My town garden isn't really big enough.

    Not only that, my house is warmed by radiators. Because ground source heat pumps can't belt out heat like a more conventional system, they don't work well with that kind of heating system. In fact they work best with low heat systems, like underfloor heating.

    Finally, the Energy Saving Trust simply doesn't recommend ground source heat pumps to properties that are hooked up to the gas network as it is comparatively cheap. Homes that are fitted with the pumps still need electricity in order to power them, so it's very hard to save money if you're hooked up to the National Grid.

    The real savings come if you're replacing a costly electric, liquid petroleum gas or coal-fired heating system. Ideally you'd have it installed while you built or renovated the property, to keep costs as low as you can. It is possible to retro-fit this technology if it's suitable but obviously that increases the expense.

    [See also: Ways to save energy you don't already know]

    How much do they cost?

    If your home could save money with a ground source heat pump, you need to consider how much it would cost to fit to see just how long it would take you to make back the installation costs.

    Because my house is so unsuitable I couldn't get a quote for the work, but the Energy Saving Trust says that a typical system costs between £9,000 and £17,000. The longer the loops, the more it will cost you but the more heat you can harvest.

    It estimates that a typical ground source heat pump will save you £480 a year if you use electric heaters, £180 a year if you currently use oil to heat your home and £200 a year if you're replacing solid fuel.

    At that rate, it will take quite a few years to earn back the installation costs. However, if you don't use gas to heat your home then you can apply for assistance with the cost of installation under the Renewable Heat Premium. You need to apply before the end of March to benefit.

    What do they cost to maintain?

    You don't want to have to dig up half your garden to fix your heating, so how much maintenance does a pump need?

    The good news is that this equipment needs very little maintenance once it's installed; the Energy Saving Trust calls it 'fit and forget' technology.

    However, that's assuming that you've had decent equipment fitted in the first place. A quick visit to several home-generation forums shows that many people have difficulties because of shoddy work carried out by unskilled fitters who've simply jumped on the 'green pound' and don't have the experience needed.

    Best way for you to save

    It can't be stressed enough: If you haven't insulated and draught-proofed your home then there's no point installing any kind of renewable energy system.

    But if you've taken steps to cut the power you use in your home, then the right technology could save you money and cut your environmental impact.

    If you're not sure what sort of renewable energy tech would save you money then it's worth taking a look at the Energy Saving Trust's questionnaire to find out what's best for you.

    Felicity is Yahoo! Finance's money-saving columnist. If you have a money-saving scheme you'd like to see tried out then let us know in the comment box below.

    More money-saving features from Felicity

     

    226 comments

    • George M  •  5 months ago
      The best ground source heat pump uses refrigerant pipes buried in the ground, not water, and ideally should serve a ducted air system in the house. Bear in mind that you get a relatively low grade of heat (temperature wise) so you should expect to run your heating 24 hours a day. Having said that, such a system woud usually have a coefficient of performance of something like 5 to 1 during a typical English winter - that is to say, for every kilowatt of energy used by the heat pump your home will get 5 kilowatts of useable heat.

      Now if you are fortunate enough to have a water source (stream, pond or swimming pool) you could use that instead of the ground as your heat source with the possibility of even higheer COP figures.

      Finally, you will have yet another benefit - during hot summer weather the heat pump can be reversed to air condition your house.

      Air-to-air heat pumps are used extensively in the USA and are very successful, but in our climate they tend to freeze up too regularly due to our high humidity and relatively mild temperatures.

      Finally, the capital cost of such a system is out of the reach of most of us. Not that much dearer if you are building a new house from scratch, but in an existing smallish property???
      • Matt 5 months ago
        Totaly understand the - extra cost to convert an existing house..

        My point was it should be in all new builds..

        combined with a nice wood burner, you have a great start to a warm and inexpensive house
      • Richard Kenny 5 months ago
        Up to a point I agree about using a geothermal system with refrigerant in the collector pipes. These systems are known as direct expansion systems and either have refrigerant (along the lines of 407C - or a newer replacement refrigerant) or propane.

        There are a number of disadvantages to these systems... or at least a number of characteristics that should be considered.

        Firstly in the unlikely event that the collector pipe gets damaged you need a refrigeration engineer to make the repair whereas with a "brine" (water and glycol or else a salty water solution) you just clean off the ends of the pipes and fit a standard plumbing connection, anyone can repair it, and then top up with a water and anti-freeze mix.

        On the positive side, direct expansion systems should be more efficient due to the lack of an evaporator heat exchanger. However A WORD OF WARNING. In my experience in Ireland most direct expansion systems came pre-assembled on a pallet with a fixed amount of collector pipe. They boasted a "higher" COP, but (again in my experience) I have never seen one that came with adequate collector pipe. BY that I mean that when we were specifying approximately 1km of collector pipe they were putting in less than half that and still rating their system the same in kilowatts.

        The real trick with an efficient geothermal system is that you take a SMALL amount of temperature from a LARGE area of space in the ground in order to avoid chilling down the ground. The direct expansion systems seem to try and do the opposite. Whatever the systems drawing the heat from the ground, the ground still needs the same amount of time to recover, so in theory over time a direct expansion system will perform less and less efficiently assuming they are still putting in less pie in the ground and excavating less space. If they put in an equal amount of pipe in the ground and take an equal amount of garden space then they WILL be more efficient. So it is VITAL to read and compare quotations very carefully and not just take the salesman's word.

        Just to clarify; I was involved in the geothermal industry in Ireland for 4 years from 2001-2005, I now a certified passive house designer and a recently graduated architect.
      • John 5 months ago
        It's good to get your experienced view Richard. As someone who has lived in a house with this heating system I can also say from experience that these systems can be quite expensive to run if you do not have enough pipe, the reason for that is that when the temperature of the ground drops too far to provide heat for the house the system then uses an immersion heater to heat the water instead.
        Another issue with the system I had was that it could not be turned off only turned down this meant that even in the height of summer the underfloor heating was still on and still costing us money!
        If I was building new i would not include this system! Insulate and ensure the availability of adequate ventilation for summer this will cost you less and the house can be heated for next to nothing (there are houses in Britain with no heating needed 10 months of the year) also once the insulation is in it will not need repairing or replacing.
    • dodo  •  5 months ago
      If we all keep saving fuel by turning things off guess what happens, they put the price up because they are not making enough profit
      • ray 5 months ago
        That's the reason Dodo, nail on the head there.
      • John 5 months ago
        Yep but if you don't turn things off guess what IT COSTS YOU EVEN MORE.

        Didn't Dodo's die out because they didn't learn? Sorry I don't want to be rude but it is a little obvious.
      • DAVID S 5 months ago
        There is only one gas pipe feeding my house coming from one gas depot! Why do so many RIP OFF Competitors have access to charge different prices. Competition its called to make things cheaper??? Call on the Power of the People to bring the price down or bring down the RIP OFF Companies.
        POWER to the PEOPLE. for the PEOPLE
    • L  •  5 months ago
      Man o man I wish I was building a new house right now. I'd get off the grid and the water companies grasp but the nanny state want to dictate to us all like the fascists they are. We have a perfectly acceptable Klargester septic tank system which I put in when I built this house 25 years ago. It never needs emptying and the soak away is bult into one of our fields yet now Severn Trent want to "Adopt" it and charge us a fee / extra on our water rates and the council want to list all "private sewer systems" no doubt so they can f88k us up in one way or another. People like us in the sticks get screwed over all the time. What is Cameron playing at promising a cull of these useless local authority jobsworths and yet hardly any jobs have been cut from the civil service at all. Sure they are speaking about "cuts" but that is in the INCREASE in spending (waste and pi88ing money up the wall to you and I) not actual cuts and NO jobs have been culled at all!!! If we could half the size of government we wouldn't be worried about freezing our nuts off because we'd all have a LOT more money to keep warm this winter!
    • ALAN  •  5 months ago
      Novices may wonder why heat pumps (HP) work best with underfloor heating. This attempts a simplistic answer.
      A comfortable room temperature is say 21 degrees. Conventional radiators circulate 70ish degree water, so that your little 1/2m sq radiator can adequately heat all the air to 21 degs. A normal HP can only output max 55 degree water, so to adequately heat the room you'd need a much bigger radiator panel (and no one likes the look of radiators). Underfloor heating effectively gives you a radiator (hidden underfloor) that's as big as your whole room. Although the HP can produce 55 degrees, the temperature has to be reduced or you'd burn your tootsie on the 55 deg floor. So the circulating heat is reduced to just 25 degs. (A few degrees get lost somewhere so the floor only gets to say 21 degrees) This is v comfy especially as heat rises so your body is feeling that 21 degree temperature from toes to scalp.....after that, who cares what temperature the ceiling is! The best floor surfaces for underfloor heating is ceramic tiles. The next best is a thin wooden (say oak) floor. But beware, if you put a carpet/underlay over the floor, the heat cant get through, so it wont work and you'll freeze.
      I live on a boat so ground source is obviously impossible. I use air source which is every bit as good but a little more expensive to run. Still, its a darn site cheaper/easier to install (£1500 as opposed to £10k+....what you win on the swings you lose on the roundabouts). But for every 1kw of electricity I use to run the HP, I get 4kw of heat out, which means its roughly 1/2 the cost of running a gas boiler and loads less CO2 emissions. Also I can't have underfloor heating on a boat (think about it!), so I blow warm air from the HP into the room. Its every bit as effective but has the minor disadvantage of some low level noise from the fan unit. Its a fab solution when (like me) you have no mains gas.
      Hope that helps.
      • Wallbanger 5 months ago
        In principal theres no reason why you couldnt run the vapouriser coils below the water line of your boat. Floor heating would be just as viable as any home but you might lack area!
      • bumf 5 months ago
        I live on a boat with underfloor heating 100 meters of 15mm pipe......and it works. What kind of heat pump do you use on your boat?
      • No Name 5 months ago
        Alan
        My ground source [200 metre depth] works absolutely fine on radiators. I use the high output type radiators and all is nice and warm.
    • fed up with the lies we a ...  •  5 months ago
      When we had our house renovated and extended, we fitted downlighters and energy efficient bulbs in the renovated rooms and in the extension rooms. It is our view that this was a huge mistake, we are replacing these at the rate one or two a week where in the past we replaced a standard filament bulb about one every year or two.

      Not only are the downlighters much more expensive, they are harder to find, and a swine to remove and replace when they stop working, the bulbs are too fragile and often the fastener tongs remain broken off inside the fitting. The energy efficient bulbs should be taken to a recycling place becasue of the toxic materials they contain, but there are not many recycling places to take them too.

      What do we do with the dead bulbs now. We dump them in the bin - thereby saving fuel looking for a recycling place.
      • Eddie 5 months ago
        Energy efficient lamps should last quite a while. It maybe that the heat disappation in your downlighters is causing them to fail prematurely. The new ultra bright LED may be a better option but again if you are using GU10 fittings then this may be a size problem.
      • Ray Rational 5 months ago
        I just thought I would point out that the Earth's Outer Core is 1,790miles below your feet, and the Inner Core is 3,160miles below, that would be a lot of pipe to install and the pipe would have to be very heatproof!
        Doing some quick maths, it would take at least 50yrs to break even, and I am well over 50 already, and thats not including maintenance, (the pipes not me, although...)
      • Eddie 5 months ago
        Energy efficient lamps should last quite a while. It maybe that the heat disappation in your downlighters is causing them to fail prematurely. The new ultra bright LED may be a better option but again if you are using GU10 fittings then this may be a size problem.
    • Kev_UK  •  5 months ago
      Run a pipe from The House of Commons and all that hot air politicians spout could be used to heat homes all over the UK
    • Gandi  •  5 months ago
      I liked the way that Scottish Power started giving away low wattage light bulbs to save energy. I had about one and a half dozen off them, all in the name of keeping my energy costs down. Then in March and November this year they put there prices up.
    • Colin  •  5 months ago
      I have dug a large hole in my garden and put a 10'x6'x4' fiberglass tank in it. I have directed some of the house rainwater to fill it. Then I am connecting a shed roof downpipe into the tank and a return (via a small pump) to the ridge of the roof. The roof gets too hot to touch in the summer so I am hoping to raise the water temperature in the tank by this means. Whether there will be any benefit in the winter I just don't know. The water in the tank will be used to heat my hot water via a heat pump, maybe the central heating.

      I researched PV. Its expensive and no one talks about the eco cost of producing it. Altering the house wiring to absolutely seperate lighting from power and then using LED lamps would save a lot of money especially if they operated at low voltage from a couple of car batteries topped up by wind, PV or even your old exercise bike fitted with with a dynamo.

      We need to do something.
      • Bert 5 months ago
        You've not considered voltage drop due to wiring; you'd have to use a supply above the nominal working voltage of the lamps and then drop it at the luminiere. There would be enough energy loss in the heat given out by the regulators you'd wish you'd stayed with the mains.
      • ashley 5 months ago
        Is there an alternative in these last days of time..??
      • Bert 5 months ago
        You've not considered voltage drop due to wiring; you'd have to use a supply above the nominal working voltage of the lamps and then drop it at the luminiere. There would be enough energy loss in the heat given out by the regulators you'd wish you'd stayed with the mains.
    • CHRIS  •  5 months ago
      My advice as an Air-Conditioning Engineer and now An Air-Conditioning Expert, the only thing that would save you money and has proven that worked for over 20 years is normal Air-Conditioning Heat pump type basically you put it on and within 15 minutes it reaches the temperature set , whatever the temperature is outside. I have installed these type in my house for over 10 years, when Air-Conditioning was still a voodoo in this country and It has never let me down, and as for bills I only have 1 bill to pay which is Electric, due to I have everything Electric no gas, and for a family of 4 especially now I have 2 teenagers ( Girls) , I only pay £110/month. ANd for heating my water for showers I have a new generation Combo Water heater which is also an Air Source Heat Pump from the famous Brand Midea, From Zetacool in London.
    • christopher  •  5 months ago
      I'f you are building a house from scratch it makes sense especially it it's a flat pack. I own own in Scotland, it came from Poland on the back of four very large artics, has a VERY high energy efficiency rating. Several of the houses round have 'air pumps' and one has ground source heating. All of them find they work well but two have log burners too as a back up.

      I'm informed that it is now possible to heat radiators from air/ground pump sources as temperatures the systems are achieving are improving, but the rads are large.

      The pumps are actually large fridge motors that work in reverse. Instead of taking energy from food, they take energy out of low temperature sources and hike the temperature. An air pump will take energy from air at a temp as low as -2deg C.
    • ZIONIST  •  5 months ago
      Run your bath, washbasin, washing machine, dishwasher and shower water through radiators or pipe systems so the heat is not wasted in the sewers. Ensure cleaning access points are fitted. A huge amount of heat is wasted by households that fail to do this.
    • ray  •  5 months ago
      Ground Source Heat .... 'My Arse', my cellars underground and it's bleedin freezing down there, i've had to put a radiator in there.
    • Attila  •  5 months ago
      Dopey!
      Just do a search via yahoo or google for Geothermal Energy in Iceland and see how it is REALLY done and how we SHOULD develop it in the UK as a country not individual houses.
    • Tom  •  5 months ago
      Nearly 60 years ago two schools in Cheshire were built and had no heating fitted in them, but they were warm all the year. The clever architect was never asked to do any other schools or houses so the secret has gone how that was posible.As for 30 miles needed to go down is silly,ask any miner there would be enough heat to warm water to make a turbine turn at about 2 miles,in Hampshire there is enough heat at nearly the surface and it has been going on there for many years.
    • nick  •  5 months ago
      The problem with all these systems is the rip offs that are being carried out by so called experts,. PV panels for example cost about $1 per watt so a 3 KW system should cost about £1500 installed so where does the other £3000 to £10000 go that you are quoted, simple straight into the sharks pockets, similarly with ground source heat pumps, dig hole £240, pipes £500 plumbing £50 heat pump about £1500 ex China plus say £100 shiping (no hurry), connect to underfloor heating pipes and system £1000 , so where does the other £15000 go? The Government should be controlling these prices and then we could all afford them. It is a well known fact that civil servants are the worst negotiators in the world and know the real cost of nothing because they are always spending other peolpes money, i.e. ours the tax payer.
    • james a  •  5 months ago
      I had such a system but have since removed it for several reason
      1,It was too noisy,there were 2 boxes 1 unsightly white box in the garden near the bedroom window which was very annoying at night as it sounded like 10 load fridges together
      2,The control unit in the garage which had a couple of pumps and an an exchanger plus some contactors,when the heating kicked in this made a fairly loud clack which was the contactor clicking in
      3.Space ,we needed 200m square of garden which was dug down to 60cm filled with sand and then the pipes layed on top,the pipes needed to be as close to the control unit as possible so depending on the layout of the garden it may take up your main garden area,as was in our case meaning we could not plant anything in this area.
      4.Cost ,we found our electricity bills to be very high due to the system,maybe it wasn't optimised correctly but we did have several people take a look.Installation cost is also pretty high when you add the cost of digging the garden to accommodate the system.

      We had this hooked up to an under floor heating system ,it did heat pretty well but overall I would not recommend it.
      If you do go for it make sure;
      you can place the external unit away from habited areas of the house
      You are sure you will not require the garden area for planting later on
      Above all be sure to use an expert in the field not just some heating engineer/plumber who has seen it on the internet and think he can install it.
      It needs to be set up correctly to be efficient this is very important.

      We took our system out and installed a air system which has an outside unit which uses air ,we also had a 2nd unit to heat the hot water,this has proved to be excellent ,quiet and very efficient.
    • Little Mac  •  5 months ago
      Has your colmnist looked at air source heating which I am told can be just as effective as ground source!
    • LtP  •  5 months ago
      You're better off installing evacuated tube solar heaters than earth-source heat-pumps - unless you''re planning a 'new build' OR shared costs with others. These systems contain 'Dewar' style glass tubes which, themselves, contain black metal tubes which absorb InfraRed wavelength light emitted by the Sun and convert that light into heat.

      The vacuum tube ensures none of the heat escapes to the atmosphere. The heat from multiple tubes migrates to one end (usually upper) where it's transferred to a collection tank. There a working fluid absorbs the heat from ALL the tubes and an electric pump carries the fluid through tubing/piping into your home where the heat can be transferred to your potable (hot) water system (aiding the conventional water heating system - reducing energy costs) and/or be used in direct heating systems - such as radiators and sub-floor heating arrangments.

      Here's a UK site for a firm which carries an assortment of these systems (just for edification). http://www.navitron.org.uk/category.php?catID=71

      Before you go about spending your savings or pension on ANY such systems - check into your thermal insulation. Though the government MAY provide some relief to rate payers in the form of fuel subsidies - if you've gaps in your thermal insulation all you're doing is throwing good money after bad. "Plug the gaps!" You wouldn't attempt sailing cross the channel in a boat rife with holes - would you?
    • Michael  •  5 months ago
      I have a house here in France which runs on what we call a Geothermic heating system which sounds the same as described above. I have 1.7 kilometers of pipe laid about a meter underground connected to a compressor/heat pump. My house is 200Sq Mt which is a reasonable size house.My heating bills come in at around €450 a year to maintain a temperature of 20 C.
      In the house I rented whilst mine was being built the house was smaller and cost €1700 of fuel oil.
      It cost €22,000 to install in the build project.
      I have underfloor heating which is fantastic as it gives an even temperature throughout the house. On a cold morning -18C outside we can walk bare foot and feel very comfortable. In the summer time the system can be reversed and cool the house down.
      A normal central heating system would have cost me around €15000 so I have spent €7000 more which I should start to get my money back after 14 years. I could have saved €4000 if I did not have Geothermic heating installed upstairs which would have given me a quicker pay back. If I was doing it again I would probably not install it up stairs as the heat raises. We have the up stairs heating almost turned off as it gets to hot during the night.We were advised that we would not need it up stairs. Another friend of ours has the same system. They also said they would not have it installed up stairs if they were doing it again. I think it is a great system for our style of house. It wouldn't work for your normal terrace or Semi type house in the UK
    • Hackford  •  5 months ago
      She didn`t say 30 feet but 30 miles! read more carefully Barry