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Dreamwork Makes Celine Work in New Mr Porter Capsule

Photo credit: Courtesy
Photo credit: Courtesy

Exclusive. Hey! Gloomy fashion boys have dreams too! Or at least they do when dressed in Celine Homme, as today, the luxury brand riffs on its REM time in an exclusive capsule collection for Mr Porter.

Under the fairly trippy title of "Cosmic Cruiser", the 37-piece line is said to be a reflection of the dreams (or nightmares) that fall upon today's freshly unshackled youth, much of it from the brand's most recent collection. See, that lockdown business did none of us any good, least of all The Kids. This period of one's life (just after you're legally allowed to drink but right before you have to pay your own rent) is a special time for all of us, but it's now inherently unique to a generation that spent much of these sacred salad days indoors. Celine is celebrating the Zoomers as they finally head out.

And come on in, the water's lovely! And quite lively, or so says the official release, as the capsule takes a spot in the throng of the "neo-rave" amid a "sense of escapism". Creative director Hedi Slimane has long celebrated the changing party scene as it cut new and different shapes over the years. During his Dior stint in 2007, it was private school dropouts that were all mop tops, angles and shrunken suits dishevelled in a very specific, covetable Parisian way ("chic", they sometimes call it); at Saint Laurent, where he famously dropped the 'Yves', the schoolboys joined a rock band, and swapped blazers for leather and leopard print; the designer has even drawn up tourwear for Jagger, The Kills, The Libertines, Beck et al. Makes sense, then, that Slimane has paid homage to 2021's graduating class of late nights and first times.

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"Cosmic Cruiser" has thus melded the old and new school. A leather jacket – the enduring relic of causeless rebels – has been updated with embroidery and embellishments. A fleece hoodie is oversized, warped, and caked in an artistic print. Jeans are distressed (much like the successive counter cultures that adopted them), but with a wide leg (unlike most trend denim of the last 40 years). This stuff is inspired by Zoomers, though it isn't just for Zoomers.

In a bid to add some texture, Slimane commissioned 14 ascendant artists to create various pieces throughout the collection, such as the knitwear, slogan and print T-shirts, jewellery and shoes. The resulting mix adds several interpretations to the close-but-yet-so-far freedom that's dangled for the last six months, and makes "Cosmic Cruiser" a collection of several voices.

Because that's the thing about dreams. They're jumbled, and noisy, and sometimes sexy, but mostly quite mad in the best possible way – and Celine, in this instance, has made certain dreams come true.

Available at mrporter.com now

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