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Feng Chen Wang RTW Fall 2024

“Would you have tea with me?” joked Feng Chen Wang, holding a 3D-printed handbag shaped like a teapot.

A hot beverage was exactly what the sub-zero Parisian temperatures called for on Thursday morning. Alas, it was only the inspiration of a fall collection where Wang continued to fuse her heritage with contemporary-minded wares.

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In Feng’s Southern China hometown of Fujian, a tradition of the tea-harvesting period is for people to go around the 100-or-so producing families to determine the year’s best.

The brew was distilled throughout the collection in the palette of earthy tones, finishings like hand-dying using mineral pigments — or prints thereof — and washed textures. A clutch of accessories also played into this, including an overshoe that looked like clay had been sculpted over Converses. (She has an ongoing footwear collaboration with the Nike-owned brand.)

The designer kept to the more mature direction initiated last season, leaning into tailoring once more. Formality was reined by details such as scans of jeans and workwear printed on suits and trenchcoats.

Corsetry elements signaled a dressier direction on a denim blazer, or via interesting pleating effects on the torso.

Other styles played on her streetwear savvy, particularly for women’s silhouettes. Among standouts were a form-fitting dungaree jumpsuit; washed and tea-stained nylon blousons that felt poetic rather than punky; and jeans that had the ease of joggers.

Cold weather gear such as a flight jacket with a wide fluffy collar and cocoon-like coats also felt attractive — and not just because of the day’s weather.

Most might prefer tea piping hot, but the one Wang served was cool.

For more PFW reviews, click here.

Launch Gallery: Feng Chen Wang RTW Fall 2024

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