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Michelin stars 2021: Clare Smyth and Helene Darroze big winners in London as stars announced

<p>No stopping them: the decision to continue with this year’s awards has not been a popular one</p> (Getty Images)

No stopping them: the decision to continue with this year’s awards has not been a popular one

(Getty Images)

Despite considerable scepticism from chefs and food media alike, Michelin decided to press ahead with this year’s red book for the UK and Ireland. To follow along live, please scroll down the page.

In some respects, it’s remarkable: the guide’s inspectors can hardly have had time to make it to the dozens of London restaurants with a star to ensure quality is being maintained, much less time to explore potential new inclusions. And for those who lose a star, the news will feel remarkably unfair, not least a little cruel.

Michelin itself has recognised the oddity of publishing a guide for 2021, writing in a statement last week: “We are not blind to the harrowing times we live in and are more than aware of the hardships being faced by so many. No one can deny that what the hospitality industry is suffering through is nothing less than tragic.

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“At a time when restaurants and pubs are closed, why then would we be launching a guide and awarding Stars? The answer is simple: we want to promote the industry as much as we possibly can. We want to celebrate the many amazing restaurants in Great Britain & Ireland and all the hugely talented chefs and restaurateurs. We want to shine a light on our industry, to keep people talking about it in the media and remind everyone of what we have, and to bring news of our great restaurants to a global audience.”

Interestingly, Michelin went on to remark that it had been contacted by chefs keen for a guide this year. And, for those who are included, the news will be some of the only good kind to emerge over the last 10 months or so.

Whether right, wrong, irrelevant or not, the 2021 guide is going ahead. It is still arguably the most influential guide out there and this year’s inclusions are likely to bump struggling businesses, as they often do.

A reminder of the criteria required for a star - it’s not all white tablecloths and tasting menus. Far from it. Officially the criteria is fairly simple:

One star: Very good cooking in its category.

Two stars: Excellent cooking, worth a detour.

Three stars: Exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey.

Follow the live blog below for updates as they happen, and expect commentary to follow soon afterwards.