Yahoo Finance You Need A Pair Of Chukka Boots (Or Desert Boots), And You Need Them Now
Menswear writing 101: don’t mention Steve McQueen all the time. Though in the case of the humble chukka boot, that small diktat is somewhat impossible. For McQueen is practically the patron saint of chukka boots. He wore them with jeans, chinos and suits, off-screen and on it, all the while proving the humble boot's lasting versatility.
Like McQueen himself, the beauty of chukka boots is a robust kind of elegance. With these on your feet, you walk a nice line between hardman and man-about-town, because it’s a shoe that has seen military service in World War II, but was originally designed for G&T-sipping polo players.
That means much wriggle room in how you wear them. You can be all well-heeled establishment. You can be a bit rebellious too, like Frank Bullitt, and all the other mods and reggae musicians that tapped the chukka boot. Even the Duke of Windsor and Marlon Brando had a pair.
It’s maybe the ultimate smart-casual boot style. Which is a very big claim. But, with the exception of sweatpants, they'll also pair with practically every trouser hanging in your wardrobe.
What Is A Chukka Boot?
Simplicity in boot form. Ankle high, chukka boots tend to be lightweight and comfortable. The upper is usually made from two pieces of leather (the vamp and the quarters) and there are only two or three eyelets for the laces. They have a rounded toe on either a thin sole, made usually of leather or rubber.
“They are both classic in style and have stood the test of time, they combine comfort, function and fashion,” says Edward Kelleher, menswear buyer at John Lewis. Enough said.
What’s The Difference Between Chukka Boots And Desert Boots?
This is the stuff of nerdy fashion pub quizzes, but the short answer is: desert boots are a form of chukka boots. Whereas the most traditional chukkas have a thin sole, desert boots usually have a thicker, spongy crepe sole made from layers of compressed latex (although other forms of rubber soles aren’t uncommon). Either way, they’re less formal than traditional chukkas.
“Desert boots are most commonly made from suede, but can be found in leather [and] they have a more relaxed structure,” says Kelleher. “While a chukka can have a rubber, leather or a contrast polyurethane sole, the style of the chukka boot is more structured and smarter.”
British shoemaker Clarks lays claim to the archetypal desert boot, which it began selling in 1950. The story goes that Nathan Clark, the great-grandson of the company’s founder, designed the boots while serving in the British Army in Burma during World War II. A company of soldiers arrived from north Africa wearing boots customised with a crepe sole. Clark sketched his own design and sent it home.
That blueprint has barely changed since, although the brand has collaborated with everyone from Supreme to Drake on limited editions. Expect more exclusives for the 70th anniversary this year.
How To Wear Chukka Boots and Desert Boots
If you want to go full McQueen cosplay, pair a chocolate-brown pair of chukkas with some off-white chinos and a shawl-collar cardigan or Harrington. Nothing wrong with that, but bear in mind that styling this kind of boot depends on whether you’re wearing a desert boot or a slimmer, smarter chukka.
“A suede desert boot is best worn with a casual trouser, such as a relaxed fit jean, chino or short in the summer months,” says Olie Arnold, style director at Mr Porter. “A chukka boot with a leather sole can be worn in a more formal manner, such as a pleated or flat front wool trouser, but really one of the best attributes of this boot is its versatility to cross style borders from both smart and casual.”
Also think about the boots’ condition, adds Kelleher. “Have you looked after them? If they are a pair of beautiful and clean suede or leather boots they will work well with a smart pair of dark jeans or slim fit chinos and a crisp white tee or shirt, teamed with a blazer or jacket.”
If the leather is beaten up, keep it casual with Desert Rat-style fatigues.
The Best Brands For Chukka Boots And Desert Boots
CLARKS
The quintessential desert boot is, like a Levi’s trucker, one of those rare menswear-hall-of-famers that you can pick up for around £100. They’re soft and comfortable but surprisingly hardy nonetheless. Evergreen colourways include tan and chocolate but seasonal editions come in everything from lime green to terracota. Look out for a streak of new special editions as Clarks celebrates 70 years of the design in 2020.
CHURCH'S
Owned by Prada today, Church’s footsteps lead all the way back to Northampton, the spiritual home of damn good shoes, where the company was founded in 1873. All that heritage practically guarantees a superior chukka boot, with Goodyear construction and suede so soft you’d wrap a newborn in it.
SANDER & SANDER
Another Northamptonshire shoemaker with more than a century of knowhow under its heels, Sander & Sander counts Steve McQueen and James Bond as customers. McQueen wore the brand’s chunky crepe-soled style in Bullitt and Daniel Craig followed suit in SPECTRE.
JOHN LEWIS
Unsurprisingly, the high street’s most reliable destination for good menswear sells a wide range of men’s most reliable boot style. As well as its own sleek leather chukka boots, John Lewis stocks brands as diverse as Paul Smith and Timberland.
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RED WING
For a more robust take on the chukka, look to the foreman of work-boot brands, Red Wing, which has been manufacturing its work chukka since the fifties. Originally designed for indoor carpentry work it’s lighter, more flexible and frankly forgiving than the brand’s famous Moc Toe boot, but it’ll still take some wearing in.
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