PEOPLE's 24 Hour Food Tour: Philadelphia

Exactly where to eat in Philadelphia if you've got a short visit and a big appetite — and you want a possible celeb sighting thrown in

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Writer Regan Stephens grew up in Philadelphia, and after stints in New York, London, and Los Angeles, moved back to the best city in the world in 2016. She’s covered Philly’s dynamic food scene — reporting on stories about Mexican pizza, an urban cheesemaker, and a charcuterie trail — and recently won a National Magazine Award for contributing to a Philadelphia magazine feature about hoagies. Get her interactive Guide to Eating in Philadelphia on Saltete.

Unless you’ve been living under a Rocky statue, you’ve probably already heard that Philadelphia is home to a knockout food scene. We have the best cheesesteaks, of course, but there’s so much more on the menu in the City of Brotherly Love. Classics abound, from red gravy Italian joints (including Ralph’s, the country’s oldest) to beloved Chinatown institutions, and not one but two historic food markets. Beyond the traditional, though, the scene gets a spirited boost from innovative chefs and makers constantly dreaming up new ways to feed us. Of course, it’s impossible to devour it all in just one day, but with proper planning, you can get a true taste of Philly’s top tier culinary landscape. And yes, that includes a cheesesteak.

Breakfast: Fiore

Regan Stephens

Fiore in Philadelphia

Kick off your Philly eating adventure at Fiore in Fishtown, the neighborhood northwest of Center City and home to a host of the city’s buzziest restaurants. Run by chefs Ed Crochet and Justine MacNeil, the modern day mom-and-pop specializes in housemade pastas and squares of tomato pie for lunch, but in the morning you’ll find one of the best breakfast spreads in town. Order a few of MacNeil’s Italian-inspired pastries like a berry jam-filled bomboloni, slices of impossibly-moist orange olive oil cake, and maritozzi overflowing with clouds of whipped cream. On the savory side, the Saltie — with fluffy ricotta and scrambled eggs tucked into housemade focaccia — is also a can’t-miss.

Lunch: El Chingon

Regan Stephens

El Chingon in Philadelphia

After breakfast, head south toward El Chingon, Juan Carlos Aparicio’s bright South Philly Cemiteria. Prepare yourself to eat again with a walk through Old City —  the historic neighborhood encompassing the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall, among other notable American treasures —conveniently sandwiched between the two restaurants. After two decades of working in restaurants, Aparicio opened his own, where he’s making tacos on fresh sourdough tortillas and cemitas — a sandwich that hails from his hometown of Puebla, Mexico. The chef bakes the rolls from scratch, stuffing them with beef Milanese, or house made pork chorizo, refried beans, and melted cheese.

Sweet Treat: John’s Water Ice

Regan Stephens

John's Water Ice in Philadelphia

John’s Water Ice has been serving up water ice (that's wooder ice to the locals) since 1945, using the time-honored family recipe to whip up flavors like lemon, cherry, chocolate, and pineapple, plus a rotating variety of specials. (Honeydew and cantaloupe are popular and fleeting in the spring.) Alternatively, try a “gelati” — water ice layered with ice cream. There are plenty of respectable combos, but we love a simple vanilla ice cream and cherry water ice number. Don’t be deterred by the long line; the pros scooping the soft, slushy ices are lightning-fast. Have your order and cash ready, though.

Dinner: Mawn

Hannah Boothman

Mawn in Philadelphia

A self-described Cambodian noodle house with no rules, Mawn occupies a pocket-sized space at the north end of Philly’s famed Italian Market. There, chef Phila Lorn dreams up dishes that pay vibrant homage to the cuisine of his childhood, but through a decidedly fresh, first generation Philadelphian lens. Try the galangal- and lemongrass-scented beef, Mawn noodle soup with schmaltz-infused stock (a nod to his wife Rachel’s Jewish heritage), and for dessert, the funnel cake with a miso caramel drizzle. Mawn is a BYOB, so before dinner, pick up a bottle of wine from Sande Friedman’s expertly-curated selection at Di Bruno Bros. bottle shop, just a few blocks south.

Late Night Snack: Pat’s King of Steaks

Pat’s King of Steaks

If you come to Philly and don’t try a cheesesteak, were you even here? Stand-out options can be found throughout the city, from corner delis to Bradley Cooper favorite, Angelo’s. But for a solid late-night snack, head to the birthplace of the cheesesteak: Pat’s King of Steaks. Open 24 hours a day, make your way to the window to order a classic cheesesteak with fried onions and American or Cheez Whiz. Provolone is also acceptable, but please, for the love of Gritty, don’t ask for Swiss.

Spot a Celebrity at: Zahav

Daniel Knoll for Visit Philadelphia

Zahav in Philadelphia

When Jason Kelce isn’t pounding Bud Lights shirtless in celebration of his brother’s playoff win, he’s been known to enjoy a tasteful (and fully clothed) dinner at Zahav. The Philadelphia Eagles center has named the modern Israeli restaurant one of his favorite dinner destinations, and he and wife Kylie have been spotted there on date nights.

The 16-year old restaurant from chef Michael Solomonov and Steve Cook nabbed a James Beard Award for the most outstanding restaurant in the country in 2019, and it can still be tough to score a reservation. They hold the chef’s counter (and in the warmer months, tables on the outdoor patio) for walk-ins, though.

Arrive before opening to try your luck for an array of salatim, warm pita, buttery Turkish hummus served hot in a skillet, and the restaurant’s famed tender, pomegranate-infused lamb shoulder.

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