Maria Grazia Chiuri delved back into the extensive Dior archives for Spring 22, and to Marc Bohan’s long tenure with the storied house. Zeroing in even further, Chiuri turns to the Slim Look collection,
presented in 1961. At the time of its release, the press said “It completely changes fashion, just as the New Look did in 1947." In other words, it was a moment. The show took place on a graphic, color-blocked set conceived by artist Anna Paparatti. The looks themselves followed that colorful spirit —leveraging yellow, green, red, navy, orange, and raspberry on little skirt suits, along fun, fringe dresses inspired by the iconic Roman nightclub the Piper Club. There is also a range of bright, boxing inspired looks, bold prints, like that found on a silk maxi skirt paired with a sheer black blouse, and louche denim suiting. Overall, the collection is inspired by...nonsense? As the show notes explain, Grazia Chiuri looked to Anna Paparatti’s Il Gioco del Nonsense (The Game of Nonsense). Nonsense, as the American poet and literary critic Susan Stewart saw it, is “perfect, pure, an untouched surface of meaning whose every gesture is reflexive." Maybe something a little like boxing? -Kerry Pieri