Yahoo Finance Girona: Spain’s ‘gastronomic haven’ is perfect in summer. Here’s a foodie guide
THE WEEKEND If you are seeking a truly world-class culinary experience, you can do no better than spend a long weekend in and around Girona in the Catalonia autonomous community of Spain. The city’s restaurants have 18 Michelin stars between them, and at the other end of the budget spectrum there are fantastic markets and a rich tapas scene bursting with Catalan delicacies such as Arròs Negre (cuttlefish in squid ink) and Calçots (spring onions grilled over an open fire and dipped in Romesco sauce). The Mediterranean and its seafood riches are only half an hour’s drive away, and looking out at the sea is one of Spain’s finest heritage hotels: Hostal de la Gavina.
TAKE A TOUR Gina Guillen of Girona Food Tours has a phenomenal knowledge of Girona’s history, as well as its gastronomic delights. On a half-day walking and tasting tour (€79 per person) she will introduce you to the favourite snacks of many of the city’s ancestors, from the Iberians she describes as “Spanish Vikings”, to the Sephardic Jews who were a vital part of the city’s mediaeval community. The edible highlights of Gina’s tour include Xuixo, a local puff pastry filled with something akin to crème brûlée, said to have been invented by a circus performer in Girona in the 16th century; cold meats – including an unexpectedly sweet candied sausage cooked with with sugar, cinnamon, and lemon – at Mercat del Lleo, otherwise known as the Lion’s Market; and the best Cava and Jamon Iberico you will ever taste, masterfully paired by sommelier Sandra Corominas in her delicatessen- cum-wine bar, La Reserva.
WHAT TO SEE Girona’s history dates back to pre-Roman times and evidence of the past is well- preserved. There’s a walking trail which links the surviving sections of the old city walls, and thanks to the raised elevation it is an ideal way to get your bearings and some impressive views across Girona. Exploring on foot, you should also visit the Call Jueu, the best-preserved mediaeval Jewish quarter in Europe, which was boarded up and left empty after the Spanish Inquisition in the hope that its former residents would one day return; the Catalan Gothic cathedral, which at one stage of its history was used as a mosque; and the 12th century Benedictine church of Sant Pere de Galligants, built in a Romanesque style. The colourful riverside houses of Cases de l’Onyar are particularly photogenic, and the red iron foot bridge linking the two riverbanks was designed by none other than Gustave Eiffel. It is said that he built this bridge as a proof of principle, testing out the ironwork structure he went on to use for the Eiffel Tower.
WHERE TO STAY Hostal de la Gavina is the jewel of the Costa Brava, located just south of Girona, overlooking the bay at S’Agaró. Since the 1920s, this elegant hotel has been a magnet for the most glamorous of guests: sepia photographs of Salvador Dali, Laurence Olivier, Orson Welles, Rudolph Nureyev, and Elizabeth Taylor decorate the walls. With individually designed rooms and suites in an attractive collection of low-rise buildings spread across extensive gardens, it feels like a private home, a sentiment emphasised further by the attentive yet understated service. Classic rooms at La Gavina start from €280 per night, including breakfast, and many of them have balconies looking out on the gardens or to the Mediterranean Sea.
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WHERE TO EAT Michelin-starred Chef Romain Fornell oversees three restaurants at Hostal de la Gavina, but his flagship restaurant is Candlelight. On a warm summer evening, the sound of the pianist drifts out into the courtyard where guests at a dozen tables dine beneath the stars. There’s ample space to get up and dance between the tables should the mood take you and your date be amenable. Candlelight’s menu changes seasonally but is always a showcase for local ingredients like tuna, langoustine, and pigeon. The set menu costs €130; the recommended wine pairing is an additional €65. For more casual dining in Girona, many of the stalls at Mercat del Lleo have a stool where you can stop for tapas and a glass of wine, but you can also gather up an indulgent picnic to eat outside. But if it is morning coffee and a pastry you are after, the obvious choice is a stop at La Curreria de La Cort Reial, a tiny bakery serving what are probably the best churros in Spain. Perch on a wall in the square, soaking up the summer sunshine, and revel in this gastronomic heaven.
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