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Petersburg restaurant: Oyster Society opens soon, exclusive interview with Chef LaBrecque

On the right, seated at a table overlooking N. Sycamore St. in Old Towne Petersburg, Oyster Society co-owner Chef Ernie LaBrecque of Petersburg strikes a pose with Bartender Eli Dwyer of Richmond.
On the right, seated at a table overlooking N. Sycamore St. in Old Towne Petersburg, Oyster Society co-owner Chef Ernie LaBrecque of Petersburg strikes a pose with Bartender Eli Dwyer of Richmond.

PETERSBURG — Are you ready? Three individuals have partnered to provide diners with out-of-this-world culinary adventures. Where? In historic Old Towne. How? Pie holes have been slammed shut!

Petersburg residents Chef Ernie LaBrecque and his wife KB, owners of Beaunuts Donuts, have partnered with Elliott Fausz of Chester to open what will surely be a hot topic. Images of the gothic revival-style, Victorian era décor with skulls, taxidermy mounts, antiques, artwork will surely be splattered across social media platforms. Food pics will be at an all-time high.

Opening soon, Oyster Society is located at 309 N. Sycamore St. on the first floor of the building owned by Robert "Bobby" Lynch. The space was previously occupied by Cockade City Bistro & Beer Garden for a couple of months as well as D.J.s Rajun Cajun for over seven years.

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Eight to 10 people will be employed to kick-start Oyster Society, and as business demands grow, more rock stars will be hired to join the team.

According to Eli Dwyer, bartender at Oyster Society, Lynch repurposed wood from rooms above the restaurant to create the multi-colored interior paneling in the bar area, which is behind the door to the right when looking at the storefront. The beaded boards look incredible!

Oyster Society restaurant store front in Old Towne Petersburg on July 20, 2023.
Oyster Society restaurant store front in Old Towne Petersburg on July 20, 2023.

Petersburg: Chef Ernie LaBrecque

Ernie LaBrecque is Ernie LaBrecque. I have never met anyone quite like Ernie LaBrecque. He spared some of his coveted free time to answer a few questions. As always, his responses were strangely entertaining.

What is the meaning behind the name Oyster Society?

"The meaning is revealed only to initiates and perfected by the adepts," Ernie stated.

"Secret Society" is mentioned in Oyster Society's Facebook posts. Ernie responded "Ssssshhhhhh" when I asked him to explain it.

A bear rug positioned at the foot of a pulpit, the hostess station, at Oyster Society restaurant in Old Towne Petersburg in July 2023.
A bear rug positioned at the foot of a pulpit, the hostess station, at Oyster Society restaurant in Old Towne Petersburg in July 2023.

What type of vibe do you wish to convey at Oyster Society?

"The word vibe has been stricken from The Order’s language. Its overuse in recent years has rendered the verb/noun/adjective nearly meaningless," Ernie stated. "Use of the aforementioned word could result in banishment."

Remember... Ernie LaBrecque is Ernie LaBrecque. He's unforgettable. Trust me on this one.

Chef Ernie LaBrecque's culinary creation at Oyster Society in Petersburg, Va.
Chef Ernie LaBrecque's culinary creation at Oyster Society in Petersburg, Va.

What type of food will be on the Oyster Society menu?

"Elevated yet approachable, chef-driven fine dining with a focus on Virginia oysters and local ingredients, when possible," Ernie answered.

I thought, "Hmm, this response was at a humdrum-level compared to his previous ones. I better brace myself because he's bound to get sassy with the next one." LOL!

Beaunuts Donuts fans will have to walk across the street to get their fix. They will not be available at Oyster Society.

What will Oyster Society offer that no other fine-dining establishment is doing right now?

"The term fine dining usually conjures images of gold-rimmed plates, white table clothes and quiet dining rooms, which I also love, but we aren’t quite THAT," Ernie said adamantly.

Oyster Society will offer a high degree of technique applied to familiar ingredients in an eclectic setting, according to Ernie.

Ernie and Dwyer were co-workers at Upper Shirley Vineyards in Charles City prior to the life-altering pandemic. Oyster Society will have its own craft cocktails; however, the pair are keeping tight-lipped about the completed cocktail list.

"Ssssshhhhhh. Y’all are just gonna have to wait and see," Dwyer said. "Our craft cocktails with seasonal ingredients are something to get you out of your comfort zone."

According to Ernie, Dwyer is a northern Virginia native. His parents and brother are all bartenders, so he comes by it naturally.

The Oyster Society restaurant interior on July 7, 2023.
The Oyster Society restaurant interior on July 7, 2023.

Oyster Society's interior design was a huge collaboration. Many people donated items to grace the walls, etc. Ernie apologized in advance if he forgot to mention any supporters.

  • Original Art: Barry Roebuck, Monica Padilla, Eli Dwyer, Mel Talley

  • Antiques/Furniture: Richard Wilson, The Battisons, Stardust, Vlkojan’s Antieks, Annette and Bill Barr

  • Mounts/Skulls/Taxidermy: Walter Dance, Fred Simmons, Richard Wilson, Michelle Murrills, Slye family, Kristi Higgins

Al fresco dining will be an option at Oyster Society, and the owners plan to host live music. It will be available for private event bookings and buyouts, but the main focus will be dinner service.

Images taken at Oyster Society restaurant in Old Towne Petersburg.
Images taken at Oyster Society restaurant in Old Towne Petersburg.

It feels pretty darn good to Ernie to be the chef of his own restaurant.

"I’m excited about being able to bring something new and interesting to Old Towne," Ernie said. "I’ve always worked as a chef executing someone else’s vision. Oyster Society will be our vision."

An Oyster Society Facebook post caught my eye. Of course, I was shushed by Ernie. Ha! It contained the following:

  • Interesting Outfits

  • Stimulating Conversation

  • Gluttonous Overindulgence

  • World Domination

Elliott Fausz of Chester works on renovations at 9 W. Old St. in Old Towne Petersburg in October 2021.
Elliott Fausz of Chester works on renovations at 9 W. Old St. in Old Towne Petersburg in October 2021.

Oyster Society co-owner: Elliott Fausz

It's a small world. Fausz was my boss when I was an assistant publisher with the Chester-based Village News. He was the owner/publisher of the weekly publication which ceased operation earlier this year.

Currently, Fausz manages properties as well as renovates and invests in real estate around Petersburg, Chesterfield and Cape Charles. He will mainly serve as a business advisor and foodie at Oyster Society. He will lend a hand wherever and whenever he is needed.

Petersburg memorabilia graces a wall at Oyster Society restaurant in Old Towne.
Petersburg memorabilia graces a wall at Oyster Society restaurant in Old Towne.

What inspired Fausz to become a restaurateur?

"Ernie was the inspiration to jump into the restaurant business. He had a great vision and a wealth of talent that I just couldn’t pass up the opportunity," Fausz said. "The concept that he created is unlike anything else you’ve ever seen in the area."

Fausz is extremely confident that when diners walk into Oyster Society, they will know that they are going to experience something they have never experienced before.

"From the décor and atmosphere to the plating and flavor palette, Ernie has stretched his imagination to create something really special in Petersburg," Fausz said.

Restaurateurs KB and Chef Ernie LaBrecque
Restaurateurs KB and Chef Ernie LaBrecque

Petersburg: Restaurateur Kathryn "KB" LaBrecque

KB is eager to see the hard work, dedication, creativity and talent that has been poured into Oyster Society.

"We can't wait to serve our community in this awesome new spot. I will continue to balance mom life with restaurant life and fill in as needed," KB said. "You'll catch me washing dishes, cutting lemons, welcoming our guests or perhaps at the bar enjoying a cocktail."

Oyster Society restaurant in Old Towne Petersburg on July 7, 2023.
Oyster Society restaurant in Old Towne Petersburg on July 7, 2023.

Old Towne Petersburg: New destination restaurant

At Abigail's Antiques in Old Towne, I ran into my daughter's high school friend Shane Emory, a Petersburg native. As it turns out, he formatted the Oyster Society menu for the LaBrecques and Fausz.

“I couldn’t be more excited. I can’t say much, but I promise you that Chef Ernie has a destination restaurant on his hands here," Emory said. "It is going to be entirely different than anything we have in Old Towne right now.”

After hearing off-the-record bits and pieces, I share Emory's sentiment. Oyster Society will indeed be a unique destination. How can it not be with Chef Ernie's wild imagination, skills and one-of-a-kind personality.

Images taken at Oyster Society restaurant in Old Towne Petersburg.
Images taken at Oyster Society restaurant in Old Towne Petersburg.

Future diners are quite curious as to what is transpiring.

Sarah Steck of Chesterfield commented, "So secretive and mysterious [heart emoji]."

"You have to stop this incessant teasing! We want to see the real thing," Ken Cox of Colonial Heights commented.

"Has a 'Peaky Blinders' vibe, Tommy's house," Kt Bug of Hopewell commented.

I don't watch the Netflix series Peaky Blinders, a British period crime drama, but I Googled it. Bug is correct. The fictional character and protagonist Thomas Michael Shelby's mansion looks like it would have the same aura, atmosphere, energy like Oyster Society's. Please don't banish Bug for her "vibe" usage. We all need to learn the "Secret Society" rules.

Oyster Society restaurant décor in Old Towne Petersburg on July 7, 2024.
Oyster Society restaurant décor in Old Towne Petersburg on July 7, 2024.

Bug also commented, "Y’all are killing me!!! When is this food porn location going to open? I cannot take it much longer."

"I love love love the atmosphere that you created," Jill Woodward Cox of Williamsburg commented.

Rhonda Donald inquired as to whether there will be options for pesky vegetarians. She received the following response: small plates, salads and always a composed vegan entree [hyper-seasonal].

Bobby Haller commented, "Yo, this is gonna be [15 flaming fire emojis]."

Artwork at Oyster Society restaurant in Old Towne Petersburg.
Artwork at Oyster Society restaurant in Old Towne Petersburg.

"Art and oysters?! Dahlin’ - please, may I have some more," Sallie Cauthers of Petersburg commented."

Melissa Dunn of Chester is counting the days until Oyster Society opens. Dunn may already be a member of the "Secret Society" because apparently she knows how many days to count.

Dunn excitedly commented/cheered, "This is going to be the best dining location in Central Virginia. Let’s goooooo!"

Oyster Society's opening day is also mums the word, however, to begin with, it will be open Thursday - Saturday 5 p.m. - midnight and Sunday noon - 7 p.m. For cozy, creepy teasers and more information, follow Oyster Society on Facebook and on Instagram @oyster_society.

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— Kristi K. Higgins aka The Social Butterfly, an award-winning columnist, is the trending topics and food Q&A reporter at The Progress-Index voted the 2022 Tri-Cities Best of the Best Social Media Personality. Have a news tip on local trends or businesses? Contact Kristi (she, her) at khiggins@progress-index.com, follow @KHiggins_PI on Twitter @socialbutterflykristi on Instagram.

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This article originally appeared on The Progress-Index: Petersburg: Chef LaBrecque follows dream, opens destination restaurant